Tasting Ground
Savor these special days
WE ARE PASSIONATE ABOUT FOOD. Flavor is essential, but presentation is the icing. The eye eats (or drinks) first, and we are enthralled by culinary artistry of all forms. The layers of effort that undergird the food culture of the South are evident at these standout spots. Our region is alive in gustatory riches, from farm to table (and distillery, as you’ll see below).
—Blair Knobel, founder and editor in chief
DEVOUR » Local Flavor
For these Atlanta-based restaurants, place is key to craft
by Angela Hansberger
A RESTAURANT’S PROFOUND SENSE OF PLACE elevates mere cooking to an art form; food feels most authentic when rooted in and redolent of a particular geography. At these restaurants in and around Atlanta, chefs are delivering global flavors through a regional lens.
Fawn Wine & Amaro Bar
Tucked away on Decatur Square, Fawn beckons with the intimate allure of a clandestine discovery. Dark and moody, it is a haven for seafood where the atmosphere feels both hushed and intensely vibrant. It’s a place for snacks and for culinary thrill seekers of the restaurant’s inventive tasting menu called the Sandbar. The succinct yet imaginative menu whispers a dialogue between Italian coastal traditions and the pristine purity of Nordic cuisine driven by relationships with local farmers and fisheries. 19 E Ponce de Leon Ave, Decatur, GA. fawnwineamaro.com
Bread & Butterfly
Stepping inside this Inman Park bistro, you are easily transported to a French café with marble-topped tables and bar, blue-and-white woven bistro chairs, and the charming, tiled patio humming with conversation, lit by a neon merci sign. Yet, the spices wafting from the kitchen tell a deeper story. This is classic French technique through a vibrant African lens, specifically the soulful flavor of Haiti. 290 Elizabeth St, Atlanta, GA. bread-and-butterfly.com
Minhwa Spirits
Minhwa Spirits is a soul-stirring destination where heritage and cutting-edge creativity intertwine. A word meaning “ancient Korean folk art,” used as an expression of joyous occasion and to ward off evil, Minhwa is more than a spirits business and restaurant. It’s a vibrant cultural incubator, a bridge between tradition and innovation. 2421 Van Fleet Circle, Doraville, GA. minhwaspirits.com
WANDER » Walking the Line
Smack on the border of two Southern states, Bristol finds its singular voice
by Jennifer Oladipo
BRISTOL IS ACTUALLY TWO NEIGHBORING CITIES IN TENNESSEE AND VIRGINIA. But they grew toward each other, unstoppable as kudzu, while a pivotal railroad hub fueled industrial growth. The two Bristols eventually merged at what is now the center of a historic downtown, in a city that holds something unexpected around almost any corner.
Today, you still have to stop for trains. And Bristol remains a place where edges continue to meet and merge. Chill, trendy rooftop bars float above old-fashioned eateries and jeans-and-T-shirt taprooms. A laid-back country lifestyle sits comfortably alongside raucous motor speedway merriment.
It doesn’t take long to figure out that Bristol is a place where historical pride is an important catalyst for movement toward the future. The U.S. Congress dubbed Bristol the official “Birthplace of Country Music” in 1998, a heritage that remains integral to the culture and influential nationwide.
Splashes of creativity also spill into the streets, sometimes in less spectacular ways. For instance, those of us who would spend hours gawking at historic homes in all stages of restoration and resplendence are the lucky ones who will find a delightfully unfussy art garden tucked into a tiny residential lot.
Read Jennifer’s full story about Bristol on our website.
IMAGINE » Word Count
Small Southern publishers bring untold stories into the light
by Abby Moore Keith
IN A WORLD THAT IS INCREASINGLY DIGITAL AND AI-GENERATED, small-batch publishers are championing the written word. From memoirs to poetry collections, new novelists and underrepresented voices, these Carolina-based publishers know there’s nothing quite like turning that first page of a fresh-bound book.
Loblolly Press
Championing marginalized Southern voices, Loblolly Press offers a unique collection of contemporary poetry, short fiction, and novels. When Hurricane Helene devastated the mountain communities of Western North Carolina, founder and managing editor Andrew Mack quickly united local artists and writers to create the Understory collection, a digital zine that benefits relief work.
Good Printed Things
What began as a side project when founder and designer Lib Ramos convinced a friend to write a book and let her design and publish it, Good Printed Things now has a host of happy titles to show for it—everything from a gardening zine to poetry collections on state parks. Lib, whose background is in graphic design, delights in connecting writers and illustrators to create beautiful books, many of which center on themes of community and curiosity.
Hub City Press
It may be small, but Hub City has set the bar for how a hometown press can make a big splash. Now in its 30th year, the Spartanburg-based house has curated some 90 works of poetry, fiction, memoirs, and short stories, some of which have had Best Book of the Year shoutouts from the likes of NPR and coverage from top publications like the New York Times, Wall Street Journal, and more.
University of South Carolina Press
For more than 80 years, the University of South Carolina Press has published thoughtful works that center on education and encouraging community conversations. Their extensive collection includes biographies, cookbooks, historical works, children’s literature, field guides, and so much more. Many explore the rich, cultural heritage of South Carolina by highlighting historical moments through modern storytelling.
DEVOUR » Flight Path
The team at Wonderbird Spirits crafts award-winning gin in a small Mississippi town
by Blair Knobel
THE BIRD HAS A LONG MYTHOLOGY. Wings outstretched, floating above the clouds, it represents freedom; a rising phoenix from the ashes signifies rebirth; and a bird in a cage? Trapped but trilling—much like creativity. Even when it’s stifled, it finds a way to sing.
Such was the case for Chand Harlow and his business partners, Thomas Alexander and Rob Forster, before launching their award-winning grain-to-glass distillery, Wonderbird. The three friends were in corporate careers. Harlow was living in New York City, working hard in finance, yet dreaming of breaking into the food-and-bev industry. At the time, he was haunting bourbon distilleries and thought that distilling could be a fulfilling pivot.
Fast-forward a few years, Harlow moved back to his native Mississippi and settled in Taylor, a quaint town near the literary and collegiate haven of Oxford, to push full bore on his dream. Changing course from bourbon, Chand and his partners decided to focus on gin. “I’ve been into gin since I was a young person; I was exposed early,” Harlow says. “[With gin], you can be as creative as you want to be and express the terroir.” He notes that while gin has traditionally been a minor player in the spirits market, it has been exploding around the globe.
What comes from this meeting of artistry, intentionality, and science? A damn fine bottle of gin. The team is hands-on from start to finish, even personally labeling each bottle. Wonderbird currently offers three varieties: Wonderbird Dry Gin, Gin No. 61, and Gin No. 97 Magnolia Experimental. They have recently sold out of their Cask Finished Gin No. 61 - Batch 4.
Find more about Wonderbird Spirits on our website.
DATEBOOK »
Upcoming events on our radar
Thru Dec 27. Vessels. Art & Light Gallery, Greenville, SC.
Thru Jan 4. a’driane nieves: A Time for Furious Dancing. Harvey B. Gantt Center for African-American Arts + Culture, Charlotte, NC.
Dec 13. Sip & Shop. Camino Wine Merchant, Greenville, SC.
Dec 13. Village Launch Holiday Market. Mill Village Ministries, Greenville, SC.
Dec 18–May 21. The Family Album of Ralph Eugene Meatyard. High Museum of Art, Atlanta, GA.
Feb 10–15. Hell’s Kitchen. Peace Center, Greenville, SC.
END NOTE »
SPARTANBURG’S MŌZZA ROASTERS AND RALEIGH’S UNION SPECIAL are two regional makers whose coffee and baked goods recently caught our attention. For a limited time, Union Special is offering panettone, the sweet Italian bread traditionally served during the holidays. The bakery is whipping up three varieties: Sweet Potato & Sorghum; Triple Chocolate; and a classic Milanese-style version. Treat yourself or send a gift—they are made to order. Pair it with java from Mōzza for a match made in breakfast heaven.
